It snowed in Joburg for the first time since 1981 (according to my sources). I love the snow more than anything. To me it represents quiet and a chance for everything to slow down. Ironically, today I am more frustrated that I have been since I got here (no easy feat). I am so tired of people not listening to me or my suggestions. I know what I am talking about. I am seriously close to loosing it. At least I didn’t have to go to the PBBC presentations today.
I’m going to try and focus on the snow. Hopefully it will calm me down.
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Tuesday 26 June 2007- Day Twenty Five
Today’s presentations were generally better than yesterday’s presentations. I suppose that this is because they had a more social science slant as opposed to yesterday’s strait architecture/planning focus. Perhaps more than anything else, the People Building Better Cities (PBBC) conference has made me realize that I have a specific discipline based perception of the world and how it works.
There is a definite design paradigm that is being presented in the PBBC and I find this paradigm to be unendingly offensive and condescending. The language used is that of twenty years ago (the name of the city tour is Joburg: From Rich to Poor). What is more, the idea that tourism will solve all the developmental problems in these communities is ridiculous. Pretty buildings are not what the people of Alex need; they need infrastructure, toilets, sanitation, housing, garbage removal and health care. I am worried that our opinions and first hand knowledge will be largely ignored in the Global Studio.
There was one presentation today that I thought spoke to the essence of what Global Studio is trying to accomplish and also what the social science/architecture collaboration is supposed to accomplish. The Paul Phoeleros presentation on the three projects that his company is working on was fascinating. This company is doing so much to affect the lives of those who need it in such a simple yet practical and tangible way. The presentation was given without the slightest bit of arrogance or self-importance and it managed to capture the interest of both the social scientists and the designers.
Tonight the weather was really crazy with strong wind and plummeting temperatures. At one point the door to our balcony flew open and the wind pulled the curtains through the door. At one point a glass shattered and I literally screamed out loud.
I went out with a couple of people to try and pick up some of the New School students from the PBBC tour of Constitution Hill. I really don’t know why we even try to drive here. None of the streets are marked and the streets are filled with detours due to the new metro system they are trying to put in. We ended up never finding our friends and managed to get turned around in the main taxi rank in the CBD. We decided to leave when I heard something that sounds like gunshots. On the way home at the corner by the main street by our dorms I swear I saw another grim reaper. It may have just been a man in a long black robe with a hood but really, who wears those?
There is a definite design paradigm that is being presented in the PBBC and I find this paradigm to be unendingly offensive and condescending. The language used is that of twenty years ago (the name of the city tour is Joburg: From Rich to Poor). What is more, the idea that tourism will solve all the developmental problems in these communities is ridiculous. Pretty buildings are not what the people of Alex need; they need infrastructure, toilets, sanitation, housing, garbage removal and health care. I am worried that our opinions and first hand knowledge will be largely ignored in the Global Studio.
There was one presentation today that I thought spoke to the essence of what Global Studio is trying to accomplish and also what the social science/architecture collaboration is supposed to accomplish. The Paul Phoeleros presentation on the three projects that his company is working on was fascinating. This company is doing so much to affect the lives of those who need it in such a simple yet practical and tangible way. The presentation was given without the slightest bit of arrogance or self-importance and it managed to capture the interest of both the social scientists and the designers.
Tonight the weather was really crazy with strong wind and plummeting temperatures. At one point the door to our balcony flew open and the wind pulled the curtains through the door. At one point a glass shattered and I literally screamed out loud.
I went out with a couple of people to try and pick up some of the New School students from the PBBC tour of Constitution Hill. I really don’t know why we even try to drive here. None of the streets are marked and the streets are filled with detours due to the new metro system they are trying to put in. We ended up never finding our friends and managed to get turned around in the main taxi rank in the CBD. We decided to leave when I heard something that sounds like gunshots. On the way home at the corner by the main street by our dorms I swear I saw another grim reaper. It may have just been a man in a long black robe with a hood but really, who wears those?
Monday 25 June 2007- Day Twenty Four
The only thing more exhausting than fieldwork is sitting in a conference room for nine hours.
Today one of the presenters was discussing Alex and he referenced Jane Jacobs’ assertion that life is on the streets (a view I agree with completely). If this is true, then the heart of Joburg (proper) is non-existent. There is hardly anyone on the streets, save for the occasional outlier neighborhood (Berea, Hillbrow). Not only is there no one on the streets, even the view of the streets is non-existent. The heart of Joburg lies in the townships, something I imagine would not go over well here.
Today one of the presenters was discussing Alex and he referenced Jane Jacobs’ assertion that life is on the streets (a view I agree with completely). If this is true, then the heart of Joburg (proper) is non-existent. There is hardly anyone on the streets, save for the occasional outlier neighborhood (Berea, Hillbrow). Not only is there no one on the streets, even the view of the streets is non-existent. The heart of Joburg lies in the townships, something I imagine would not go over well here.
Sunday 24 June 2007- Day Twenty Three
Today I went to another mall (Rosebank). On Sunday mornings there is an open-air market on the upper levels. It is similar to the open-air market at Eastbank, but still it is nice to get out of Stay City. Especially if you want to eat or to escape the disruption of the seventy new Global Studio students. It gets a little hectic and very unsettling now that they have invaded our ‘home’.
After the mall, we were driven home through a posh neighborhood. I continue to be shocked by the fences in these types of neighborhoods. All you can see from the street is a wall: continuous, ominous and sterile. Each house has their own take on the color/design of the wall, but in essence it remains of uniform height and width. I feel like all I have seen here is walls.
The duality of the wall is interesting to me. The walls seem like a form of self-imposed exile. In some instances the wall severs to keep foreigners out but in the other it severs to imprison those inside. Who is the wall really protecting? Those inside from the ‘undesirables” outside or the outside from the ‘undesirables’ inside?
After the mall, we were driven home through a posh neighborhood. I continue to be shocked by the fences in these types of neighborhoods. All you can see from the street is a wall: continuous, ominous and sterile. Each house has their own take on the color/design of the wall, but in essence it remains of uniform height and width. I feel like all I have seen here is walls.
The duality of the wall is interesting to me. The walls seem like a form of self-imposed exile. In some instances the wall severs to keep foreigners out but in the other it severs to imprison those inside. Who is the wall really protecting? Those inside from the ‘undesirables” outside or the outside from the ‘undesirables’ inside?
Saturday 23 June 2007- Day Twenty Two
Driving in South Africa is and exercises in extreme patience. Today a group of five of us (all girls) set out for Krugersdorp Wildlife Preserve. I’d estimate that it took about two hours to get there (it should have only taken about one hour and fifteen minutes). Not to bad when you consider that none of the roads are marked with either street names or directions (north/south, east/west). Some of the highways just disappear and become dirt roads only to reappear after several turns (specifically the R24, the road the preserve is on). Really, I think it was just luck and a pray that got us to the wildlife preserve.
Krugersdorp is a large rural area with amazing views of the mountains and the sparse vegetation. It is also barren and creepy. We decided that once we got the preserve we would eat at the Caravan Lodge. This had the potential to be the worst decision of my life. The five of us walked into the lodge and each of us separately had the feeling of ‘I have to get out of here before I am killed and eaten’. It was like we had stepped onto the set of the Texas Chainsaw Massacre or The Hills Have Eyes.
There was a family of three children (visitors I suppose) and a husband and wife team who owned and worked at the lodge. The children were all very blond with huge eyes and translucent skin. They looked at us like they had never seen people before. So we quickly put in our orders (grilled cheese and chips and one tuna sandwich) and went out on the porch to avoid the hostile stares.
The porch turned out to be no less creepy than inside the lodge. One cute monkey quickly became several hissing monkeys. Fearing an attack we went back into the cannibal lodge. Again, all of us separately had the feeling that we should leave without getting our food. Yet we stayed. The husband and wife kept staring at us like we were some kind of unwanted visitors. The husband kept hovering over one of the girls and the wife kept talking to us with her wild, darting eyes while rocking methodically back and forth.
After five or six minutes of uncomfortable conversation she left us to check on our order. In the interim, I began looking around the gift shop. It was filled with the stuff that you can buy at any gift shop in South Africa but these were covered in a significant layer of dust. Out of nowhere, the woman arrived with out food and we immediately left and ate our lunch in the car. I’m pretty confident that I probably ate cheese but I can’t promise that the girl that had the tuna actually ate fish.
The rest of the park, while no less creepy, was enjoyable. We saw lions, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, zebras and several deer-like species. There were also hippo pools but the unanimous decision was to leave the park before night fell.
On the ride home (much shorter because we stumbled onto a short cut) the driver and I (the navigator) saw what we though was a statute until it began moving. It was a black man with dreads covering his face and draped in a thick black blanket. As we approached in the car he was perfectly still but as we got closer he began to sway and he slowly lifted his head and gave us the creepiest snarl/smile. I thought fro sure that I was the only person that had seen this guy and that he was some sort of grim reaper come to collect my soul (I love that show Dead Like Me). Luckily the driver also saw him making the possibility of hallucination that much more unlikely. We made it back to the outskirts of Joburg by nightfall.
The whole day was like Deliverance meets South Africa.
Krugersdorp is a large rural area with amazing views of the mountains and the sparse vegetation. It is also barren and creepy. We decided that once we got the preserve we would eat at the Caravan Lodge. This had the potential to be the worst decision of my life. The five of us walked into the lodge and each of us separately had the feeling of ‘I have to get out of here before I am killed and eaten’. It was like we had stepped onto the set of the Texas Chainsaw Massacre or The Hills Have Eyes.
There was a family of three children (visitors I suppose) and a husband and wife team who owned and worked at the lodge. The children were all very blond with huge eyes and translucent skin. They looked at us like they had never seen people before. So we quickly put in our orders (grilled cheese and chips and one tuna sandwich) and went out on the porch to avoid the hostile stares.
The porch turned out to be no less creepy than inside the lodge. One cute monkey quickly became several hissing monkeys. Fearing an attack we went back into the cannibal lodge. Again, all of us separately had the feeling that we should leave without getting our food. Yet we stayed. The husband and wife kept staring at us like we were some kind of unwanted visitors. The husband kept hovering over one of the girls and the wife kept talking to us with her wild, darting eyes while rocking methodically back and forth.
After five or six minutes of uncomfortable conversation she left us to check on our order. In the interim, I began looking around the gift shop. It was filled with the stuff that you can buy at any gift shop in South Africa but these were covered in a significant layer of dust. Out of nowhere, the woman arrived with out food and we immediately left and ate our lunch in the car. I’m pretty confident that I probably ate cheese but I can’t promise that the girl that had the tuna actually ate fish.
The rest of the park, while no less creepy, was enjoyable. We saw lions, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, zebras and several deer-like species. There were also hippo pools but the unanimous decision was to leave the park before night fell.
On the ride home (much shorter because we stumbled onto a short cut) the driver and I (the navigator) saw what we though was a statute until it began moving. It was a black man with dreads covering his face and draped in a thick black blanket. As we approached in the car he was perfectly still but as we got closer he began to sway and he slowly lifted his head and gave us the creepiest snarl/smile. I thought fro sure that I was the only person that had seen this guy and that he was some sort of grim reaper come to collect my soul (I love that show Dead Like Me). Luckily the driver also saw him making the possibility of hallucination that much more unlikely. We made it back to the outskirts of Joburg by nightfall.
The whole day was like Deliverance meets South Africa.
Friday 22 June 2007- Day Twenty One
Today we had the preliminary presentations for the People Building Better Cities (PBBC) workshop. The process is daunting and I am beyond tired. I am anxious to see how the partnership with the Global Studio fares.
Thursday 21 June 2007- Day Twenty
Today was our last day of fieldwork. We spent it at a workshop on child headed households and how that ties into women’s issues and health. The ability of the community in Alex to mobilize and form ad hoc committees is amazing. At the end of the conference everyone was exchanging numbers and future meeting dates had been set. If only the government would utilize these networks and charismatic leaders the disparity of life in the townships could begin to equalize.
I was also told that as a marriage prospect I was worth ten cows. My research partner was valued at eight cows. I thought this was a good offer until someone told me that the minimum offer was ten cows. Oh well, at least I fetched the going rate.
I wish we had more time to digest the notes from the field. I am in Alex everyday by nine-thirty and leave about four. Then I come home and have to find dinner/ make plans to go out to get dinner (at least an hour long prospect). By the time I get back it is seven and all I want to do is relax and not think about the fieldwork anymore.
I was also told that as a marriage prospect I was worth ten cows. My research partner was valued at eight cows. I thought this was a good offer until someone told me that the minimum offer was ten cows. Oh well, at least I fetched the going rate.
I wish we had more time to digest the notes from the field. I am in Alex everyday by nine-thirty and leave about four. Then I come home and have to find dinner/ make plans to go out to get dinner (at least an hour long prospect). By the time I get back it is seven and all I want to do is relax and not think about the fieldwork anymore.
Wednesday 20 June 2007- Day Nineteen
Today was a challenging day in the field. My partner and I went to an AIDS hospice in Alex. The structure was basically an abandoned mechanics warehouse that was converted into a hospice. The hospice runs with no funding, no payments to anyone and food donations from the local spazas. And yet everyone that we talked to there said that the government is doing a good job in response the HIV and AIDS epidemic in South Africa. I find this hard to believe. I am choosing to hold on to the positives that I can find: that there is a lot of participation, the people running these NGOs are overwhelmingly women, and something is being done to provide care for those who need it. The level of care and humanity in Alex continues to inspire me.
Tuesday 19 June 2007- Day Eighteen
We were invited to a three-day workshop concerning child headed households focusing on capacity building and community mobilization. The first day was loosely relevant to our work (the third day is more relevant so my research partner and I will attend that day). What has struck me about committee meetings and workshops here is the dedication of the people to parliamentary procedure and politeness. The first hour and a half of the meeting was filled with a debate over the rules decided on by the group (no cell phones, speak loudly, raise your hand, don’t dominate the discussion, ect). In the states these are things that would never have to be said. Today I observed a 30-minute discussion on the merits of setting cell phones to vibrate verses turning them off. When it was decided that off was the group’s decision we had to spend additional time discussing what constituted an emergency and who would be exempted from turning their cell phones off.
Monday 18 June 2007- Day Seventeen
Today was by far the worst day of the trip. I was supposed to attend a meeting of Affected Civil Society Action and Advocacy (ACSAA), an umbrella organization of local Alex HIV grassroots groups. Unfortunately, the meeting turned into a quasi-attack of researchers and anything western. We were called on to defend our country for policies that I do not agree with, so that’s a difficult spot to be in. The African Hebrew Israelites of Jerusalem also hijacked this meeting. They proselytized to us for about four hours explaining their own brand of spiritualism and belief system (but it’s not a religion-according to them). They also claimed that they could cure HIV and AIDS through vegetables. I appreciate all forms of belief, but these two individuals spent their time denouncing all structures and then using these same structures to bolster their argument. If you are going to take such a radical position you must adhere to the parameters of your argument.
This entire day reminds me of my time doing my undergraduate degree. I went to a small Catholic liberal arts school and classes often turned into forums for Catholic doctrine. Often differing views were not expressed or when expressed denounced as wrong (I’m not Catholic and not really Christian either). So I really have no patience for ‘discussions' where the opposing point of view is not offered a place in the debate. The worst part was that the meeting was denied any chance of being productive because the two African Hebrew Israelites dominated the agenda (we came to find out that this is a regular occurrence).
Now I’m at the mall using the Internet. I guess it’s true, when you’re down you cling to what you know. And in South Africa everything I know is at the mall: reliable Internet, books, groceries, and yes, capitalism.
This entire day reminds me of my time doing my undergraduate degree. I went to a small Catholic liberal arts school and classes often turned into forums for Catholic doctrine. Often differing views were not expressed or when expressed denounced as wrong (I’m not Catholic and not really Christian either). So I really have no patience for ‘discussions' where the opposing point of view is not offered a place in the debate. The worst part was that the meeting was denied any chance of being productive because the two African Hebrew Israelites dominated the agenda (we came to find out that this is a regular occurrence).
Now I’m at the mall using the Internet. I guess it’s true, when you’re down you cling to what you know. And in South Africa everything I know is at the mall: reliable Internet, books, groceries, and yes, capitalism.
Sunday 17 June 2007- Day Sixteen
Today was a group expedition to the Cradle of Humankind…not what I was expecting. It was kind of the Disneyland of human evolution but all in all a nice museum. And well worth the drive to the country to see it. The landscape by the museum and caves reminds me of Greece (specifically Myknons and Santorini). The mountains have a nice craggy, brush, rustic feel that makes you feel close to nature. Not something that I get very often in the concrete of New York.
Saturday 16 June 2007- Day Fifteen
Today I went to the rugby/bowling club to watch the South Africa v. Australia game. Overall, I would say the club was a disappointment. The South Africans won. I didn’t watch the game because the idea of a million sweaty, drunk, smoking people in a confined space watching a sport I don’t understand isn’t very appealing to me. So I sat outside and enjoyed the sun with a friend.
She observed that the atmosphere in the club was very blue blood- Massachusetts- Martha’s Vineyard feeling. The crowd was 20 to 30 somethings that came from money and then a scattering of older men. There were also some elderly gentlemen playing cricket. The club seemed to harken back to the atmosphere of Apartheid South Africa: the whites enjoying themselves and the blacks as the serving staff. I suppose that it is this way in country clubs in the south; a revival of slavery times.
The local family that we have contacted invited us. Things went remarkably smoothly until it was time to leave. The patriarch of the family left before the bill was paid so the remaining people were left to pay his portion.
After this we were supposed to meet up with some of the New School students however the son of the local family dragged us to a bar so he could indulge in some illegal activities. I have realized that here in South Africa I have put myself in situations that I would never be in if I were in the states. I hate feeling dependent on people and I have feeling trapped in these situations where my preferences are ignored. I do not think I will hang out with this individual again.
She observed that the atmosphere in the club was very blue blood- Massachusetts- Martha’s Vineyard feeling. The crowd was 20 to 30 somethings that came from money and then a scattering of older men. There were also some elderly gentlemen playing cricket. The club seemed to harken back to the atmosphere of Apartheid South Africa: the whites enjoying themselves and the blacks as the serving staff. I suppose that it is this way in country clubs in the south; a revival of slavery times.
The local family that we have contacted invited us. Things went remarkably smoothly until it was time to leave. The patriarch of the family left before the bill was paid so the remaining people were left to pay his portion.
After this we were supposed to meet up with some of the New School students however the son of the local family dragged us to a bar so he could indulge in some illegal activities. I have realized that here in South Africa I have put myself in situations that I would never be in if I were in the states. I hate feeling dependent on people and I have feeling trapped in these situations where my preferences are ignored. I do not think I will hang out with this individual again.
Friday 15 June 2007- Day Fourteen
Alex and I don’t have the most graceful relationship. In a five-minute span today I was the most socially awkward and clumsy that I have ever been. My research partner and I were headed back up the hill and over the wall to the Sixth Avenue clinic to meet the women’s support group (we arrived to late because RHREDI offered us breakfast). The five-minute span started with a local man making the international sign for masturbation at me. Then the smells of the township’s local dump and the sight of a dead, decomposing rat, distracted me. There was also a cop down the road that turned on his siren and I tripped over a loose brick sized piece of pavement. I fell, practically sprawled out flat in the middle of the road. I got up hopped over the wall and then almost immediately another young man grazed my breast.
After this eventful start, the girls took us to see the Juksei River. The levels of pollution are unbelievable. And people live literally within a few feet of the watercourse. The though of children playing in the water or anyone using the water to drink or wash clothes with is heartbreaking. On the way back into town, we stopped by the house of one of our guides. It was an informal structure (plywood and corrugated metal) with a small kitchen and one room that is divided into a bedroom and a living room. She has a DVD player and TV that run on illegal electricity. The house has no bathroom but she does have a bucket or something similar that she uses as a toilet. Seeing and knowing people, in a tangible concrete manner, that live like this really calls your humanity into question. Knowing what I have and what I have complained about in New York seems beyond greedy and selfish. As we were leaving, my partner told the guide to turn off the lamp so as to save money and electricity. The guide replied that if she paid for the electricity she would but since it was an illegal hookup it didn’t matter.
After this eventful start, the girls took us to see the Juksei River. The levels of pollution are unbelievable. And people live literally within a few feet of the watercourse. The though of children playing in the water or anyone using the water to drink or wash clothes with is heartbreaking. On the way back into town, we stopped by the house of one of our guides. It was an informal structure (plywood and corrugated metal) with a small kitchen and one room that is divided into a bedroom and a living room. She has a DVD player and TV that run on illegal electricity. The house has no bathroom but she does have a bucket or something similar that she uses as a toilet. Seeing and knowing people, in a tangible concrete manner, that live like this really calls your humanity into question. Knowing what I have and what I have complained about in New York seems beyond greedy and selfish. As we were leaving, my partner told the guide to turn off the lamp so as to save money and electricity. The guide replied that if she paid for the electricity she would but since it was an illegal hookup it didn’t matter.
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Thursday 14 June 2007- Day Thirteen
Today my partner and I started out fieldwork process. Thabo was able to provide us a guide that took us the sixth avenue clinic. Her name is Mmapitso, a resident of Alex, who volunteers for a local NGO, The Research on Human Rights, Environment, and Development Initiative (RHREDI). The three of us set out walking towards the clinic after convincing Thabo that the distance probably wasn’t a problem. The distance was not a problem, the wall we had to climb posed a bit of a challenge though. The wall is, at it’s lowest point, slightly higher that waist level. At its highest point, the wall is taller than I am. In an exercise of full disclosure I should admit that I am exceedingly clumsy and awkward. Needless to say, my first trip over the wall was less than graceful. The reason for the wall is that the road is not level and thus the wall acts a barrier to prevent accidents. The wall also acts as a barrier to health access to women.
The sixth avenue clinic services a number of pregnant women and women with young children. The Sixth Avenue clinic has two clinicians that see on average 200 patients per day. The facilities look like a run down veterinary clinic. In the lobby, the overwhelming majority of the patients were women and children. There were maybe five men in the clinic. Sister Sebina also told us that the clinic hosts a support group for HIV positive women.
We also were lucky enough to find a local NGO, RHREDI that is extremely active in the community. The organization provides free training in HIV and AIDS education as well as computer literacy courses. RHREDI has been successful in placing about 25 women in local health clinics and one woman in a teaching position in a local school. This NGO runs on no budget and has a meager 400 rand grant that covers the rent. Something that several people kept saying is “We are the government”. I take this to mean that the community is not waiting for services to be provided from top down sources, rather they are mobilizing to advocate for their own needs.
On a completely different note, for dinner tonight I went to the mall with two other friends. We had called Rose Taxi (the company we always use) and were waiting outside. We see a cab pull up and I notice that the driver is leaning into the back seat. I assume that he is cleaning out the back so we go around and open the front passenger side door and the rear driver side door. It turns out the man was not cleaning out his back seat; he and his female companion were moving things in to the back seat. We must have stood there for a good two minutes before the situation sunk in. Sometimes I’m pretty slow on the uptake.
The sixth avenue clinic services a number of pregnant women and women with young children. The Sixth Avenue clinic has two clinicians that see on average 200 patients per day. The facilities look like a run down veterinary clinic. In the lobby, the overwhelming majority of the patients were women and children. There were maybe five men in the clinic. Sister Sebina also told us that the clinic hosts a support group for HIV positive women.
We also were lucky enough to find a local NGO, RHREDI that is extremely active in the community. The organization provides free training in HIV and AIDS education as well as computer literacy courses. RHREDI has been successful in placing about 25 women in local health clinics and one woman in a teaching position in a local school. This NGO runs on no budget and has a meager 400 rand grant that covers the rent. Something that several people kept saying is “We are the government”. I take this to mean that the community is not waiting for services to be provided from top down sources, rather they are mobilizing to advocate for their own needs.
On a completely different note, for dinner tonight I went to the mall with two other friends. We had called Rose Taxi (the company we always use) and were waiting outside. We see a cab pull up and I notice that the driver is leaning into the back seat. I assume that he is cleaning out the back so we go around and open the front passenger side door and the rear driver side door. It turns out the man was not cleaning out his back seat; he and his female companion were moving things in to the back seat. We must have stood there for a good two minutes before the situation sunk in. Sometimes I’m pretty slow on the uptake.
Wednesday 13 June 2007- Day Twelve
Today was a great catch up day. This is due to the massive strikes around the city. The health/participation project is really starting to come along. The basic idea behind the project is to collect and distribute the information about health services provided around the city. This information is available on the Internet but the communities of Alex and Diepsloot do not always have access to this information. Not only is the project viable, cost effective, and simplistic I believe that it will have a strong positive influence in the community.
Tuesday 12 June 2007- Day Eleven
Today we had our first field research meeting in Alex with Thabo. The interview went really well mainly because Thabo is such a dynamic person. He literally has his hands in everything from the ANC to the Heritage Society to a computer/DJ business. He also told us about the business center in Alex where he got his micro MBA. Thabo was able to give us several useful contacts. When I began questioning him about health issues in Alex he spoke with such openness and honesty. There are two quotes that have stuck with me:
-About housing- “men don’t care. Women are at the front of wanting a house.
Men want to sit and die in an area. Women want to explore.’
-About HIV and AIDS: “People are afraid to open the door that says education.
They think there is a big monster there.”
-About prevention technologies: “We need a story line that would tell how we get
HIV.”
These quotes are illuminating to the HIV and AIDS epidemic in the community. It seems thus far that the main barrier to participation is the lack of education. I will be interesting to see how the story in Alex will unfold.
After the day’s meetings, a group of us went to dinner at a restaurant in the neighborhood. I had cole slaw and paap. Paap reminds me of the Cream of Wheat that my mother would make for me growing up. I think I would enjoy the paap more if I could add milk and raisins. Aside from the good food and great company, it was so wonderful to get outside and walk around and to be surrounded by the sounds and smells of the street. I really miss this part of the travel experience.
-About housing- “men don’t care. Women are at the front of wanting a house.
Men want to sit and die in an area. Women want to explore.’
-About HIV and AIDS: “People are afraid to open the door that says education.
They think there is a big monster there.”
-About prevention technologies: “We need a story line that would tell how we get
HIV.”
These quotes are illuminating to the HIV and AIDS epidemic in the community. It seems thus far that the main barrier to participation is the lack of education. I will be interesting to see how the story in Alex will unfold.
After the day’s meetings, a group of us went to dinner at a restaurant in the neighborhood. I had cole slaw and paap. Paap reminds me of the Cream of Wheat that my mother would make for me growing up. I think I would enjoy the paap more if I could add milk and raisins. Aside from the good food and great company, it was so wonderful to get outside and walk around and to be surrounded by the sounds and smells of the street. I really miss this part of the travel experience.
Monday 11 June 2007- Day Ten
Today was the group presentations for the four groups. I’m really excited about the possibilities of the participation group. There are four subgroups but the groups compliment each other well. The youth group ties health, which in turn relates to housing and relocation. It was basically a slow thinking day that probably wasn’t worth a separate entry.
Sunday 10 June 2007- Day Nine
Today we took a group trip to Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. The museum was really comprehensive, I wish we had more than two hours to explore the museum. The architecture of the building was fascinating it was modern and both luxurious and barren at the same time. The landscaping of the museum also provided amazing views of Soweto.
The township of Soweto was not what I was expecting. The social stratification was very interesting to me. The Huchzermeyer article highlighted to repercussions of the economic differences between inhabitants in the townships but I never figured that the property values would range from upper middle class houses to shacks. It did seem that the differing socio-economic groups had very different interest and priorities for their lives. I was also struck by the prevalence of fences in the more affluent areas. I am reminded of Caldera’s book and her concept of fences as neighbors. It seems as soon as the family has acquired a certain level a fence becomes a major purchase; almost as if the presence of the fence is a status symbol. Everywhere in this city are walls and barriers to the interaction of people. I think this is contributing to my feeling of confinement. Additionally, Joburg seems to demonstrate another concept in Caldera’s book. The distinction on entrances for separate people is very prevalent here. Certain people can enter by way of the front door and others through the service entrance.
Living in Berea has been an interesting experience for me. I feel somewhat unsafe in the neighborhood due in large part to my race and gender. I imagine it is the way that others feel in certain neighborhoods in the United States. It is also interesting to me that sometimes my race is a benefit and sometimes a hindrance. The daily back and forth causes a sort of fish-out-of-water experience. Never have I been so consistently reminded of what I am.
The township of Soweto was not what I was expecting. The social stratification was very interesting to me. The Huchzermeyer article highlighted to repercussions of the economic differences between inhabitants in the townships but I never figured that the property values would range from upper middle class houses to shacks. It did seem that the differing socio-economic groups had very different interest and priorities for their lives. I was also struck by the prevalence of fences in the more affluent areas. I am reminded of Caldera’s book and her concept of fences as neighbors. It seems as soon as the family has acquired a certain level a fence becomes a major purchase; almost as if the presence of the fence is a status symbol. Everywhere in this city are walls and barriers to the interaction of people. I think this is contributing to my feeling of confinement. Additionally, Joburg seems to demonstrate another concept in Caldera’s book. The distinction on entrances for separate people is very prevalent here. Certain people can enter by way of the front door and others through the service entrance.
Living in Berea has been an interesting experience for me. I feel somewhat unsafe in the neighborhood due in large part to my race and gender. I imagine it is the way that others feel in certain neighborhoods in the United States. It is also interesting to me that sometimes my race is a benefit and sometimes a hindrance. The daily back and forth causes a sort of fish-out-of-water experience. Never have I been so consistently reminded of what I am.
Saturday 9 June 2007- Day Eight
Today was an eventful day. It started out with the African market at about noon (early considering my late night of dancing) and was followed by a mall and Indian food for dinner. The market was nice but bargaining really takes it out of me. It is very different from the Chinatown passive bargaining where they are willing to drop the price if you walk away. The African market requires that you endure the hard sell and then an active bargaining process before finally extracting yourself from the vendor. Oh, and at the same time you have to calculate the exchange rate.
After this we went to the Eastgate Mall. This was overwhelming and I love the mall. I blame it on the altitude. I have a few observations about Joburg and the mall. This is the third mall I have been to in a week. It seems that mall culture is alive and well here in Joburg. What I find interesting is that there is always a supermarket, movie theater and high-end restaurants (Smith and Wollensky). Families will come to the mall and eat as if they were going to a sidewalk café. Unlike the other two malls, the Eastgate mall had a mixed race clientele.
Today was a bad day for the New School group in relation to the Joburg police. Earlier today one of the students was taken into the police station and questioned (the cop would later call the girl and try to hang out). At about eight o’clock this evening a group of five of us went to the Oriental Market area for dinner. After our Indian dinner we called cabs to get back to stay city. The cab I was in was pulled over by the police and there were a few moments where I was sure I was going to have a heart attack. Luckily the driver immediately got out and talked to the cop. When the driver came back to the cab he told us that whenever the cops see white people in the area of our hotel they assume that they are trying to buy cocaine. My first thought: who takes a cab to score coke?
After this we went to the Eastgate Mall. This was overwhelming and I love the mall. I blame it on the altitude. I have a few observations about Joburg and the mall. This is the third mall I have been to in a week. It seems that mall culture is alive and well here in Joburg. What I find interesting is that there is always a supermarket, movie theater and high-end restaurants (Smith and Wollensky). Families will come to the mall and eat as if they were going to a sidewalk café. Unlike the other two malls, the Eastgate mall had a mixed race clientele.
Today was a bad day for the New School group in relation to the Joburg police. Earlier today one of the students was taken into the police station and questioned (the cop would later call the girl and try to hang out). At about eight o’clock this evening a group of five of us went to the Oriental Market area for dinner. After our Indian dinner we called cabs to get back to stay city. The cab I was in was pulled over by the police and there were a few moments where I was sure I was going to have a heart attack. Luckily the driver immediately got out and talked to the cop. When the driver came back to the cab he told us that whenever the cops see white people in the area of our hotel they assume that they are trying to buy cocaine. My first thought: who takes a cab to score coke?
Friday 8 June 2007- Day Seven
Today we went on a bus tour of Joburg. The focus of this tour was in the Central Business District (CBD) of Joburg. I really loved the Newtown area. It reminds me of the downtown area of Houston. The mix between old factory buildings and new arts space is an aesthetic that I love. The Zulu market was also nice to see. The people in the market were nice to us and one group asked one of the New School students to take their picture. This also happened to me this morning at Stay City. I took a picture of receptionist Betty and the housekeeper Betty wanted me to take a picture of her as well. She turned a posed for me the way a supermodel might. I believed that we mentioned something in class about people associating someone taking their picture with a sense of self worth. It really is a beautiful picture. I’ll try and post it.
I do have some issues with the tour that we took and they tie into feelings that I had during the brei. The tour guide showed us the revitalized CBD efforts and kept describing the driving factors as white business trying to create upper level housing and amenities. This tour seemed to only show us what the white tour guide thought we would like. This is similar to the local family in that there seem to be areas and attractions that are only meant for whites and those that are only meant for blacks. It also seems that the people of Joburg have a set list of attractions that they want to show visitors. There have been several comments from the Stay City staff when we go to the townships. They tend to question why we want to see those areas. I suppose it is only natural to want to show visitors the nicest parts of your city but this means that there is a whole section of Joburg that we would not get to experience.
This evening we went to a wonderful Cuban son/salsa/samba club. I love, love, LOVE to dance and Cuban music is the best (I’m not Cuban but my sentiments lean toward Cuban culture). My feelings about this part of the evening have little to do with my feelings about Joburg and more to do with my feelings about US/Cuban relations. The club was sponsored by Havana Club rum, something that is not imported to the US. Every time someone asks me if I have been to Cuba it infuriates me that my government tells me what I can and cannot purchase and where I can and cannot go. It is amazing that I had to come to Africa to experience the products of my (husband’s) family.
I do have some issues with the tour that we took and they tie into feelings that I had during the brei. The tour guide showed us the revitalized CBD efforts and kept describing the driving factors as white business trying to create upper level housing and amenities. This tour seemed to only show us what the white tour guide thought we would like. This is similar to the local family in that there seem to be areas and attractions that are only meant for whites and those that are only meant for blacks. It also seems that the people of Joburg have a set list of attractions that they want to show visitors. There have been several comments from the Stay City staff when we go to the townships. They tend to question why we want to see those areas. I suppose it is only natural to want to show visitors the nicest parts of your city but this means that there is a whole section of Joburg that we would not get to experience.
This evening we went to a wonderful Cuban son/salsa/samba club. I love, love, LOVE to dance and Cuban music is the best (I’m not Cuban but my sentiments lean toward Cuban culture). My feelings about this part of the evening have little to do with my feelings about Joburg and more to do with my feelings about US/Cuban relations. The club was sponsored by Havana Club rum, something that is not imported to the US. Every time someone asks me if I have been to Cuba it infuriates me that my government tells me what I can and cannot purchase and where I can and cannot go. It is amazing that I had to come to Africa to experience the products of my (husband’s) family.
Thursday 7 June 2007- Day Six
Being in South Africa is helping me work on some of my OCD tendencies. Things here run on their own schedule and there are often delays. Back in the states I would have gotten upset (my motto is: to be on time is to be late). But now I find it easier to be patient. I wonder if this will last.
We took a mini-taxi to Diepsloot this afternoon. I like the mini-taxi. It is a cozy ride but is nowhere near as uncomfortable as one would expect that a small car with thirteen people to be. Actually, I love the mini-taxi.
The trip to Diepsloot was very interesting. There seems to be less of a community than in Alex. There were children hanging out in the yards but few of the adults were together. Everyone was so friendly and open to us being there. I didn’t feel unsafe at all (although the layout of the neighborhoods is confusing. Our guide told us that there have never been any visitors to Diepsloot. This surprised me because everyone was so open to us being there.
The number of permanent structure houses was considerably less than in Alex and by far the minority of the housing structures in the community. Those that did have a permanent structure often had a yard. The landscaping in these yards rivals the landscaping in the wealthy areas around the world. Another difference between Alex and Diepsloot is that there was much more livestock and pets. It seems that if they have a sense that this will be their house for a while there is the automatic instinct of pride. I believe that if the government could provide adequate services to this township that it would be not only maintained but also improved.
On our tour we saw the school that is being built. The structure was amazing and the classrooms are nicer than any school that I have ever seen. I think this will be a great asset to Diepsloot and will also create a greater sense of community. I got to meet some of the children in the area and they were so open and friendly to us. The two older boys showed us some dance moves and then one of them began singing and beat boxing for us. There is such talent in these areas that the government could really tap into if they would only go out to these areas.
This reminded me of the article that we read about Brazil (I can’t remember the name or the author) and the environmental groups that exist in the informal settlements. The Brazilian groups would often petition the government for better services or form groups that would work to prevent environmental degradation. There seems to be no organizing structure similar to this in Diepsloot (or Alex, but I am not sure). Our guide seemed aware of the dangers of the garbage getting into the drinking water but did not seem compelled to act. Perhaps some of our group work will inspire these community groups to form and work to clean up the garbage sites (aside from the lack of health facilities, I find the lack of garbage pickup the most egregious denial of service in the townships).
We took a mini-taxi to Diepsloot this afternoon. I like the mini-taxi. It is a cozy ride but is nowhere near as uncomfortable as one would expect that a small car with thirteen people to be. Actually, I love the mini-taxi.
The trip to Diepsloot was very interesting. There seems to be less of a community than in Alex. There were children hanging out in the yards but few of the adults were together. Everyone was so friendly and open to us being there. I didn’t feel unsafe at all (although the layout of the neighborhoods is confusing. Our guide told us that there have never been any visitors to Diepsloot. This surprised me because everyone was so open to us being there.
The number of permanent structure houses was considerably less than in Alex and by far the minority of the housing structures in the community. Those that did have a permanent structure often had a yard. The landscaping in these yards rivals the landscaping in the wealthy areas around the world. Another difference between Alex and Diepsloot is that there was much more livestock and pets. It seems that if they have a sense that this will be their house for a while there is the automatic instinct of pride. I believe that if the government could provide adequate services to this township that it would be not only maintained but also improved.
On our tour we saw the school that is being built. The structure was amazing and the classrooms are nicer than any school that I have ever seen. I think this will be a great asset to Diepsloot and will also create a greater sense of community. I got to meet some of the children in the area and they were so open and friendly to us. The two older boys showed us some dance moves and then one of them began singing and beat boxing for us. There is such talent in these areas that the government could really tap into if they would only go out to these areas.
This reminded me of the article that we read about Brazil (I can’t remember the name or the author) and the environmental groups that exist in the informal settlements. The Brazilian groups would often petition the government for better services or form groups that would work to prevent environmental degradation. There seems to be no organizing structure similar to this in Diepsloot (or Alex, but I am not sure). Our guide seemed aware of the dangers of the garbage getting into the drinking water but did not seem compelled to act. Perhaps some of our group work will inspire these community groups to form and work to clean up the garbage sites (aside from the lack of health facilities, I find the lack of garbage pickup the most egregious denial of service in the townships).
Wednesday 6 June 2007- Day Five
Today we met with the Wits planning students. It was interesting but I only have one significant insight: high altitude makes you tired. I’m thinking of using this excuse back in the states.
Tuesday 5 June 2007- Day Four
Today we went to the township of Alexandra where we met with the Alexandra Renewal Project (ARP) and had a tour of Alex. The ARP meeting was interesting, however I find some of their proposal for urban building poorly founded. It seems to me that they want to create a center that does not naturally exist. I completely agree with the focus on the youth aspect and the attempt to connect Alex to the rest of Joburg but the idea of a skate park is ridiculous. It seems that most of the proposed construction is aimed at a sports culture that does not seem to exist in Alex. This is similar to the “Keep Austin Weird’ campaign of Austin, Texas with one major difference. The Keep Austin Weird campaign is centered on preserving the unique heritage of small business owners, student centered focus, and artistic ‘free spirits’ that have congregated in and on Austin. The difference is that this artistic free spirit community exists within Austin whereas this sports focus is not native to Alex.
I feel that the skate park would bring in boutique tourism as opposed to actual tourism. In place of trying to attract tourists, perhaps the funding should be allocated to a youth playground or something that will serve the needs of the community. Besides, what if the skate park charges? Who will be able to afford the costs associated with its use? Skating is potentially dangerous (broken bones, ect) and I wonder if Alex has the health infrastructure to handle the increased number of patients. Maybe the ARP should build an arts center or a drama facility for the pre-existing drama group.
This is the first time that I have been to a township (favela, informal settlement, ect). It looked the way I expected it to, however, the amount of local businesses was surprising. Aside from the street vendors that I expected, I was surprised at the number of cell phone stores, barbershops, and bodegas. Everyone in the community was friendly and open to us being there. It is amazing how people living in conditions that are beyond the realm of possibility for most of us can be so hopeful and giving.
I find it hard to reconcile the wealth of some parts of the city with the poverty of the townships. The government’s inaction is astounding. I understand that housing is expensive to build but something as basic as garbage pickup is relatively inexpensive and would greatly improve living conditions. Never have I seen marginalization to this extreme. To say it is shocking is an understatement. It makes me both sad and angry. I hope that in the remaining six weeks I can do something to improve the daily life of these people.
I feel that the skate park would bring in boutique tourism as opposed to actual tourism. In place of trying to attract tourists, perhaps the funding should be allocated to a youth playground or something that will serve the needs of the community. Besides, what if the skate park charges? Who will be able to afford the costs associated with its use? Skating is potentially dangerous (broken bones, ect) and I wonder if Alex has the health infrastructure to handle the increased number of patients. Maybe the ARP should build an arts center or a drama facility for the pre-existing drama group.
This is the first time that I have been to a township (favela, informal settlement, ect). It looked the way I expected it to, however, the amount of local businesses was surprising. Aside from the street vendors that I expected, I was surprised at the number of cell phone stores, barbershops, and bodegas. Everyone in the community was friendly and open to us being there. It is amazing how people living in conditions that are beyond the realm of possibility for most of us can be so hopeful and giving.
I find it hard to reconcile the wealth of some parts of the city with the poverty of the townships. The government’s inaction is astounding. I understand that housing is expensive to build but something as basic as garbage pickup is relatively inexpensive and would greatly improve living conditions. Never have I seen marginalization to this extreme. To say it is shocking is an understatement. It makes me both sad and angry. I hope that in the remaining six weeks I can do something to improve the daily life of these people.
Monday 4 June 2007- Day Three
Today was the tour of the Wits campus. The campus itself is beautiful and it reminds me of campuses in the South (it is similar to the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa). The architecture is very ‘collegiate classical’ (a term I just made up). I do like how the campus is secluded and provides many choices for the students in terms of provision of services.
A group of began talking to one of the Wits architecture students about transportation around the city and he echoed a sentiment that I have heard from many others that I have talked to. The statement is always the same: you can take the mini-taxi but none of them ever have and often claim they would not. I wonder if this is a racial or economic factor. Certainly everyone I have asked is in the upper classes and the only people I have seen taking the mini-taxis are black. I have been reading the Huchzermeyer article for the presentation and I think the interplay between race and economic position in South Africa is very interesting. I think it would be fascinating to see where the poor whites live.
This evening we also had a meeting to determine the itinerary for the rest of the week along with a presentation about the history of Joburg. One of the New School students (P.) made a comment that the current trend of moving the poor from the CBD to the periphery is reminiscent of the movement of blacks from the CBD to the periphery. The panel responded that this was not the case and that apartheid had more than just a racial component (certainly true). It seems to me that despite the Truth and Reconciliation Committee, there is still a reluctance to admit the racial segregation that existed within this country. Again, the end of the Huchzermeyer article highlights this dynamic. She claims that “political engagement around class issues may more effectively influence policy making than that centered on race” (Huchzermeyer 2002, 97).
A group of began talking to one of the Wits architecture students about transportation around the city and he echoed a sentiment that I have heard from many others that I have talked to. The statement is always the same: you can take the mini-taxi but none of them ever have and often claim they would not. I wonder if this is a racial or economic factor. Certainly everyone I have asked is in the upper classes and the only people I have seen taking the mini-taxis are black. I have been reading the Huchzermeyer article for the presentation and I think the interplay between race and economic position in South Africa is very interesting. I think it would be fascinating to see where the poor whites live.
This evening we also had a meeting to determine the itinerary for the rest of the week along with a presentation about the history of Joburg. One of the New School students (P.) made a comment that the current trend of moving the poor from the CBD to the periphery is reminiscent of the movement of blacks from the CBD to the periphery. The panel responded that this was not the case and that apartheid had more than just a racial component (certainly true). It seems to me that despite the Truth and Reconciliation Committee, there is still a reluctance to admit the racial segregation that existed within this country. Again, the end of the Huchzermeyer article highlights this dynamic. She claims that “political engagement around class issues may more effectively influence policy making than that centered on race” (Huchzermeyer 2002, 97).
Sunday 3 June 2007- Day Two
Today we were invited to the house of a local family for a brei (bar-b-que). The house is located off one of the main streets in an upper class neighborhood. What is interesting about this house (apart from the architecture) is that it is the only house of its kind that I have seen so far with out a four-foot wall and razor wire (as we were leaving I noticed that it is the only house in the neighborhood without these). The back yard offers a wonderful view of the Hillbrow tower and the surrounding areas.
After dinner, the head of the house gave us an informal talk about Joburg. The hosts were excited about the prospects to reshape Joburg. If it is true that they can reshape the country in any way they wish, what will be the outcome? The two races seem to live very separate lives with very little contact. How will this facilitate the future of Joburg? I understand the hesitation (uncertainty of outcome?) to mix the two races, but separate is not equal, especially in Joburg in its current form. Is Affirmative Action a bad thing to try and slowly change the values of a location and build a relationship? If the two never come in contact, I’m not sure that anything will ever change. As for the claim about the American ‘hang up’ on race, I am not sure that I completely believe this. Never have I heard race discussed so much as I have in the past two days. It reminds me of the Parnell article from class. The author suggests that perhaps the racial filter of most articles on South Africa is not entirely accurate and helps to further the division between the races.
It seems that there are areas that the whites go and that there are areas that the blacks go and with very little mixing. Our hosts offered us several suggestions to pass the remainder of the evening and each of them was to the more upscale areas of town. We did settle on the mall at Rosebank. This mall could have been anywhere in the world. There was nothing to demark it from a mall in the United States or Europe or Africa. It seemed to me that this day allowed us a glimpse into white South Africa.
After dinner, the head of the house gave us an informal talk about Joburg. The hosts were excited about the prospects to reshape Joburg. If it is true that they can reshape the country in any way they wish, what will be the outcome? The two races seem to live very separate lives with very little contact. How will this facilitate the future of Joburg? I understand the hesitation (uncertainty of outcome?) to mix the two races, but separate is not equal, especially in Joburg in its current form. Is Affirmative Action a bad thing to try and slowly change the values of a location and build a relationship? If the two never come in contact, I’m not sure that anything will ever change. As for the claim about the American ‘hang up’ on race, I am not sure that I completely believe this. Never have I heard race discussed so much as I have in the past two days. It reminds me of the Parnell article from class. The author suggests that perhaps the racial filter of most articles on South Africa is not entirely accurate and helps to further the division between the races.
It seems that there are areas that the whites go and that there are areas that the blacks go and with very little mixing. Our hosts offered us several suggestions to pass the remainder of the evening and each of them was to the more upscale areas of town. We did settle on the mall at Rosebank. This mall could have been anywhere in the world. There was nothing to demark it from a mall in the United States or Europe or Africa. It seemed to me that this day allowed us a glimpse into white South Africa.
Saturday 2 June 2007- Day One
Today I arrived at the airport. The mix of passengers on my plane was interesting to me. It appears that they fall into three categories: residents of South Africa (both black, white, colored), students on an educational program and pure tourism of which there are two groups: those going on safari (primarily older and of higher economic status) and students (generally younger and of lower economic status). These groups were more clearly defined than any other plane trip that I have ever been on (except maybe to Amsterdam). It will be interesting to see if these groupings exist in the city itself.
On the ride from the airport to Stay City, R. took us on a brief tour of Johannesburg. It reminds me of a west coast city, specifically LA. Things seem spread out and there is little discernable planning structure. There seem to be many strip malls that are interspersed with wealthy neighborhoods and poorer neighborhoods. The geographical terrain seems to provide a considerable barrier to the urbanization process. There are vast swaths that have yet to be encroached on. R. was telling us that a high percent (upwards of 80%) of the vegetation is not indigenous to the city. What I find fascinating is the mix of vegetation: from the tropical of the palms to the arid of the soil to the semi-arid of the pine trees.
At about three, a small group of us when out to go shopping. We went to the Rosebank shopping center briefly to look for necessities. It seems like a nice shopping area. What caught my attention is the open structure that exists for the mall shops. This reminds me of Miami’s open-air malls. There always seem to be people out and about in the streets. Reflecting back to the readings this relationship seems to be well established. Many small vendors work out in the streets and the necessity of travel to and from the townships would require a close relationship with the physical surroundings. This may also be a quiet form of remembrance; now that all have access to the land they will enjoy what was denied.
As we were leaving Rosebank, J. pointed out that further up the road was a shopping center where “Brad Pitt” shopped in stores with “gilded doorknobs”. I think this would be something to see, not only for comparison with the lifestyle in the States but also for inner city comparison. Hopefully we will get there.
The next stop is the Oriental Market to buy cheap cell phones. It is amazing how you can turn a corner and suddenly the demographics changes (this reminds me of New York). J. advised us to remove all jewelry and to take all our belongings. This surprised me, as I didn’t feel that uncomfortable. There were some belligerent (this might not be the word I want) vendors but other than that the area seemed to be a lot like my neighborhood in Brooklyn (Bay Ridge- above Fourth Street it is predominantly Turkish and Lebanese).
After some time had elapsed, the same group heads back to the Oriental Market for dinner. This is my first Indian meal. The food is wonderful (although I have no basis for comparison) and the restaurant is vibrant. We walk around the little open-air market after dinner to see all of the offerings. This is similar to both the Grand Bazaar and Sultanahmet areas of Istanbul. The market really comes alive at night in both places.
I must say that my first impression of Joburg is interesting. Perhaps my first impression is not accurate since we spent the day in a middle class shopping area and then an Indian neighborhood. It is also refreshing to see the vitality of the city. When there are news reports they tend to associate Africa with suffering and poverty (I guess they lead with what sells). While these certainly exist (and I’m sure we will come into contact with them), it is nice to get and alternate perspective. It is nothing like I expected it to be (not that I know what I expected). It does not feel like Africa; part of it feels like the Middle East, America, Europe, and Latin America. I suppose that this is because all of these groups have left their particular mark on the city.
On the ride from the airport to Stay City, R. took us on a brief tour of Johannesburg. It reminds me of a west coast city, specifically LA. Things seem spread out and there is little discernable planning structure. There seem to be many strip malls that are interspersed with wealthy neighborhoods and poorer neighborhoods. The geographical terrain seems to provide a considerable barrier to the urbanization process. There are vast swaths that have yet to be encroached on. R. was telling us that a high percent (upwards of 80%) of the vegetation is not indigenous to the city. What I find fascinating is the mix of vegetation: from the tropical of the palms to the arid of the soil to the semi-arid of the pine trees.
At about three, a small group of us when out to go shopping. We went to the Rosebank shopping center briefly to look for necessities. It seems like a nice shopping area. What caught my attention is the open structure that exists for the mall shops. This reminds me of Miami’s open-air malls. There always seem to be people out and about in the streets. Reflecting back to the readings this relationship seems to be well established. Many small vendors work out in the streets and the necessity of travel to and from the townships would require a close relationship with the physical surroundings. This may also be a quiet form of remembrance; now that all have access to the land they will enjoy what was denied.
As we were leaving Rosebank, J. pointed out that further up the road was a shopping center where “Brad Pitt” shopped in stores with “gilded doorknobs”. I think this would be something to see, not only for comparison with the lifestyle in the States but also for inner city comparison. Hopefully we will get there.
The next stop is the Oriental Market to buy cheap cell phones. It is amazing how you can turn a corner and suddenly the demographics changes (this reminds me of New York). J. advised us to remove all jewelry and to take all our belongings. This surprised me, as I didn’t feel that uncomfortable. There were some belligerent (this might not be the word I want) vendors but other than that the area seemed to be a lot like my neighborhood in Brooklyn (Bay Ridge- above Fourth Street it is predominantly Turkish and Lebanese).
After some time had elapsed, the same group heads back to the Oriental Market for dinner. This is my first Indian meal. The food is wonderful (although I have no basis for comparison) and the restaurant is vibrant. We walk around the little open-air market after dinner to see all of the offerings. This is similar to both the Grand Bazaar and Sultanahmet areas of Istanbul. The market really comes alive at night in both places.
I must say that my first impression of Joburg is interesting. Perhaps my first impression is not accurate since we spent the day in a middle class shopping area and then an Indian neighborhood. It is also refreshing to see the vitality of the city. When there are news reports they tend to associate Africa with suffering and poverty (I guess they lead with what sells). While these certainly exist (and I’m sure we will come into contact with them), it is nice to get and alternate perspective. It is nothing like I expected it to be (not that I know what I expected). It does not feel like Africa; part of it feels like the Middle East, America, Europe, and Latin America. I suppose that this is because all of these groups have left their particular mark on the city.
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