Sunday, July 29, 2007

Thursday 19 July 2007- Day Forty Eight

Today was difficult. The first NS student left and I miss her a lot. I can't believe that I head home tomorrow. This whole trip is a mish mosh (the technical term) of feelings and experiences that I hope I will be articulate enough to describe. In some ways it feels like I've been here for forever and in other ways it feels like I just arrived.

Wednesday 18 July 2007- Day Forty Seven

I haven’t been engaged in the GS (both in participation or intellectually) in weeks. Today was no different, despite the final presentations. Or should I say the sacrifice of the final presentations for publicity and personal gratification.

The GS has such potential if only it had a team behind it that was dedicated to something other than their own egos and partying. It is amazing how if you attach yourself to the current development buzzword how you will be given funding. In this case, the money is used to fuel the egos of a handful of people at the expense of the students and the communities the program sets out to help. We had to jump through so many hoops to get R4000 to fund the event that ultimately promoted the GS but the closing party had a budget of R6000.

Perhaps the GS should only choose cite cities in the developed world where there is a lack of any real developmental problems. I think this will increase the chances of ‘success’ for the studio.

Tuesday 17 July 2007- Day Forty Six

Ok, today I did laundry. Yesterday was just too busy with a movie and a nap.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Monday 16 July 2007- Day Forty Five

I’m taking a personal day today. I plan on doing some laundry, taking a nap, and watching a movie.

Sunday 15 July 2007- Day Forty Four

Alexandra in the Park was today. The event went off really well. I’d estimate that there were probably two hundred people there, maybe more. The day started off at nine in the morning with a trip to Alex’s version of Sam’s Club (a wholesale food retailer). My roommate and I spent about an hour in there estimating the number of napkins and drinks that would be needed. The budget was set to accommodate approximately one hundred people but we ended up buying for more (we still ran out of food).

Our health brochure was well received by the community and the NGO that we have been working with. A number of people told us that it was useful for them and would be useful for the community. We sent the extras back with the people from RHREDI so that they would be able to make copies for future events.

Saturday 14 July 2007- Day Forty Three

Today I went to the Eastgate Mall to purchase some last minute gifts. The market was easier this time, mainly because I knew what I wanted and exactly where to find it. Later in the evening, I went to another mall (Hyde Park) for a screening of Lost Prophets (a selection at a Joburg film festival).

Friday 13 July 2007- Day Forty Two

I think common courtesy has gone from uncommon to non-existent. Today I found out that some of our research contacts had been trying to reach us on the group phone (shared among three people- me, my research partner and someone else) and the messages were never passed to my research partner or I. I wonder how many meeting and contacts we missed because of this. It’s really childish and totally sabotages our research. Then one of the GS heads told us yesterday that they would pay for the printing costs of the flyer and brochure (R25 for the flyer and R55 for the brochure- less than $12 total). This morning the same person snapped at us that this is the kind of stuff architects usually pay for on their own and then practically shut the door in our faces. This is fine, we can easily pick up the tab, but there are two objections. The first is that you said you would pay for it. The second is much more complex…

The Alexandra in the Park idea is completely New School student organized. We have made all the arrangement, we have aligned all the sponsors, we have contacted the artists, and the attendees are our contacts. We took the idea to the GS because none of the other projects are viable (meaning are actually going to come to fruition in a physical manifestation) and no one else had been planning an event. Perhaps we are planning this because we have been marginalized to such an extent that we are basically event planners (not that I’m not behind this event one hundred percent). Without this idea, the GS would have nothing to use as publicity let alone have an event in the community (the point of the GS). So, without the New School students there would be no outcome of the GS. If the GS is not willing to fund us, that is fine but we should remove their name from everything.

Thursday 12 July 2007- Day Forty One

I spent the entire day doing one of my favorite things: creating and formatting documents (both the health brochure and the Alexandra in the Park flyer- this was designed by someone else). Some days I think I should have gone to design school…pesky social conscience. The brochure looks really great and I think will be a huge benefit to the community. And it is something so simple and design oriented. I can’t believe that no one picked up on this theme. I’m really glad that my research partner and I decided to disengage with the GS and work on this project alone.

This evening we had and Alex group meeting (all fifty of us) and nothing got accomplished. There are definitely factions among the group and they usually fall along the designer v. social scientist lines. There was an objection to calling the Alexandra in the Park an event and then an objection to calling it a gathering. I think the suggestion was ‘Global Studio Fun Day’. Then we had to try and get the designers to understand why we were having cultural events (performances). They couldn’t seem to wrap their minds around the fact that no one would come to an event/gathering if there were a bunch of designers talking about their ideas. You obviously need a hook to get the community involved. Not to mention it would be nice to thank the community that has helped us so much.

We’ve reached the point in the trip where interpersonal communication has begun to break down and common courtesy is not so common anymore.

Wednesday 11 July 2007- Day Forty

It is nice to be back in the field again, even if for such a short time. My research partner and I went to a brainstorming session for the event the New School is hosting on Sunday. Our event is a networking session and performance by local artists. We’re also going to print out our pamphlet detailing the health clinics and hours of operation. It will be a nice culmination of all of our research and a nice party of the community and those people that have helped us during our research.

As for the fieldwork portion of the day, we went to a women’s shelter in Alex. It is the new building where they have thirty rooms (private rooms) for women that are victims of domestic abuse. The shelter was much nicer than any facility in the states and the women can stay for a year and a half (significantly longer than the six to eight weeks in the states). The center also provides free counseling and HIV testing.

Tuesday 10 July 2007- Day Thirty Nine

Today I spent doing my own catch up work on this and on the brochure. It’s difficult to do work without the resources that I take for granted at home (Photoshop/Illustrator and the internet). Just to collect the data for the brochure required that I go to the mall and find it, then transfer it to a word document. In the end, the entire brochure will be a word document with pictures. It will be functional but I know it could have looked better.

Along those lines, work here has been frustrating. We have had offers of help with the design of the brochure and the suggestion to make it interactive (a great idea) so that it can be updated. The student offering help suggested a jpeg or tiff file so that we could design it completely in a program that isn’t available here (they are still using Corel Draw). When we explained that to make the brochure accessible and updateable it would have to be a word document she couldn’t understand. These NGOs only have access to the internet and are working without a budget some of them don’t have email so there is no way we can give them a document for a program they don’t have. There is a real disconnect between the architects and planners and the realities of both Alex and Diepsloot.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Monday 9 July 2007- Day Thirty Eight

Today I am thrown back into the maddening world of the GS. Times and schedules have been changed at the whim of the dictator of GS. We were also told that there would be a meeting tonight after the group presentations of events to decide which were worth of being pursued. So the work that was done of Friday and Saturday may have been for naught. It is only ten in the morning and I already feel marginalized.

Sunday 8 July 2007- Day Thirty Seven

Today was a long day as we made our way back to Joburg. We stopped in both Mbabane and Mazani in Swaziland. I had a delicious Portuguese peri-peri chicken and then promptly spent the next seven hours in a car.

Saturday 7 July 2007- Day Thirty Six

It was an early start today. A group of four of us decided to go to Swaziland for the weekend to the Milwane Game Park. We finally arrived in Swaziland about three in the afternoon. This game park lacked the creepy cannibal feeling of Krugersdorp. It did, however, have what our guide book described monkeys that could be a “nuisance”. If by nuisance the book meant “would see you looking at them from the trees and then move directly over you and relieve their bowels and bladders” then the description is accurate. Needless to say, I went to the bathroom and washed my hair with hand soap (I was fortunate enough to only get a small, centrally located portion of poo on my bangs). After this we went for a mini-safari as the sun was setting. I got to see zebras, wildebeests, wart hogs, impalas, hippos, ostriches, and crocodiles.

Later that night we did a night drive. There were only a few impalas a wildebeest to be seen. The real view was the night sky. There are so many stars here. So many more stars than in the northern hemisphere. At one point I could actually see the Milky
Way. I was literally looking through the universe. I still can’t get over the beauty of it all. It makes you feel both connected to something larger than the universe while simultaneously making you feel disconnected and insignificant.

Friday 6 July 2007- Day Thirty Five

Today was another mall day. Not having reliable Internet is really bothersome. It’s really funny how my idea of a fun evening is sitting in the mall with some friends and checking my email. On the flip side, its been so long since I’ve had Internet that I can’t remember what I used to spend hours a day doing.

The GS components today were interesting but frustrating. No times are clearly decided on and information is not disseminated to the group efficiently. There are always changes to the schedule and the leaders (not the immediate leaders) often drop by and make statements that are not left open to comments or suggestions.

I am in the Alex group (a decision I am happy with) and in the youth, culture and community group (another choice I am happy with). We’ve begun planning an event that will encompass our research on gender and health as well as other NS research on youth and culture. There is a design aspect to the event, namely some kind of structure to showcase art and disseminate information (possibly concrete although I do not think that 10 days is enough for concrete to cure). It was a serious challenge to get the architects and planners to understand that they can not just place these concrete structures around Alex with out going through the proper channels (especially when one of the mentors said that we could ignore the local laws and practices). Land is too contested of an issue to try and take even a street corner for a project, even if the project will benefit the community.

The architects and planners (not all, but a significant portion) have all stressed the desire to leave something permanent behind. Concrete is the chosen medium because of its durability, both to theft and vandalism. It is very frustrating to hear the way that Alex is talked about by people that have only been there for five hours. The community in Alex is not prone to theft or vandalism. They are of lower economic means but that does not imply a propensity to violence. I wonder how much good can be done by a group of people that do not understand the community of Alex.

Thursday 5 July 2007- Day Thirty Four

Today was another repeat day but this time it was 5th of June. We went to Alex with a huge group (nearly forty people). Things become impossible and drawn out with a group that big. Nothing was arranged (save a media engagement to profile the Mandela Interpretation Center that was not disclosed to the students). So we were often interrupting people and invading their homes. We also got the exact same tour as our first trip to Alex. I should have stayed home and rested.

Wednesday 4 July 2007- Day Thirty Three

Today was basically a repeat of 4th of June. Only with seven times the number of people.

Tuesday 3 July 2007- Day Thirty Two

I woke up this morning to the news that all (yes ALL) of the toilets were backed up. I have a new record for longest time elapsed without using the bathroom (twelve hours). Thankfully I used the toilets before I went to bed at one thirty.

Only eleven hours on the bus today. We were threatened with not having any lunch today if we couldn’t make it back quicker. I find this ridiculous. We nearly left half the students in the rush to get back.

Monday 2 July 2007- Day Thirty One

The mission of the day was to eat by the Indian Ocean and put our feet in the water. This morning started out with a mosquito-free shower in a room that was free of mildew. It was followed by a mighty quest to find an ATM that (1) worked and (2) did not have a line fifty people long. Four hours later and three banks later we had local currency and were sitting down to our first meal of the day. Eating in Maputo is also a slow process and having recognized this, we immediately began planning our next meal.

It was really wonderful to have a day to wander around on our own without schedules and somebody else’s agenda influencing the day’s events. I’ve found a travel group that has similar interests as me and is really laid back. We started with the Central Market, an open-air structure, where the vendors were selling fruit, vegetables, fish, poultry, beef, hair supplies and souvenirs. The colors and smells reminded me of the Spice Market in Istanbul. I really love the feel of open air street/market shopping.

The next stop was an old Portuguese fort by the ocean. There were a lot of old statues from the period of Portuguese rule that had been placed in the fort for preservation. After this we walked to the Plaza dos Trabahaldores and the train station. The train station is one of the most beautiful buildings that I have ever seen. It is a pale green building with white edging done in the Spanish Colonial style. It was here we ran into Pietro and the informal settlement tour (or should I say we made up the entire informal settlement tour).

The tour of the informal settlements was really interesting. The informal settlements in Maputo are closer in proximity to the city but they are definitely more secluded than the informal settlements in Joburg. In general, the informal settlements in Maputo are more formalized and stable than both Alex and Diepsloot. They have a central paved road with sidewalks and huge drainage gullies. Off the main road, there are dirt roads that provide the grid of the neighborhoods. The pathways are clearly marked with signage, free of garbage and appear to have an overall organization. The houses are all constructed with cinderblocks and mortar and some have tiled roofs (others have the corrugated steel that is common in Alex and Diepsloot). There appears to be some kind of electricity provided as a number of houses have satellites.

The informal settlements in Maputo have less formal economic activity and more formalized businesses. There were far fewer fruit vendors on the streets as well as small spazas along the road. In Maputo there is an interesting sub-economy of home furnishings and plumbing supplies. There is a large corner market that sells mid-range furniture to the community. Pietro explained to us that they would buy the furniture and leave it in a spare room until they have guests. He then dove us by what he referred to as the Informal Home Depot. These businesses sold pedestal sinks and toilets exclusively.

After the informal settlements we finally achieved our goal: dinner by the ocean and a quick dip in the water. The dinner was one of the best I’ve had since we’ve been here, good food and good company. After we finished eating we were able to make it to the beach and put our feet in the Ocean, which for winter was surprisingly warm. It was the perfect end to the perfect day.

Sunday 1 July 2007- Day Thirty

I love Maputo. It is such a vibrant, relaxed city. I feel none of the underlying hostilities and resentment that exist in Joburg. I could easily spend six months to two years in Maputo. Perhaps it is because the Portuguese influence creates a familiar atmosphere but for the first time in Southern Africa I feel safe.

Today started out with an early lecture by a local architect (a meeting that we were an hour and a half late for). It is proving impossible to coordinate fifty people. After the lecture we broke into smaller groups to try and find an ATM (something that proved much more difficult than expected). One of the local architecture students took us on a tour of prominent buildings with the highlight being the public gardens that overlooked the Indian Ocean. This reminded me of the central plazas throughout Latin America. The colors and tropical plants are amazing.

After the gardens we walked along the ocean side road to get to a place to take taxis to the fish market. We ended up riding in little motorized rickshaws (in reality they were mopeds with extra seats attached for passengers). The fish market is comprised of several different fish stalls where you identify the fish you want them to cook for you (I don’t eat fish so it was less traumatic for me because it’s hard to form sentimental attachment to potatoes). We arrived hungry and thirsty but it took and hour and a half to get a Fanta and three hours to get our food. By the time we ate lunch is was four-practically time for the dinner we were supposed to have with the group.

After the meal, a number of children came up to the table and asked if they could have our leftovers. Street children are not visible in Joburg (even in the townships) but in Maputo they are. Seeing children excited to eat your excess food really puts things in perspective. We had just gorged ourselves on more food in one meal than they would have that entire day.

After dinner we made out way back to Fatima’s to find a hotel for the night (it looked like it was going to rain and the temperature was falling rapidly). My bed was under a window (a term which is defined as a large square opening in a wall that has screens stapled to it but no glass to protect from the elements). The sleep I got this evening would prove to be the best night’s sleep I’d gotten since my first night here when I passed out after twenty-five hours of travel.

Saturday 30 June 2007- Day Twenty Nine

Thirteen hours on a bus to Maputo, need I say more? And we barely made it to the border before it closed. It was also my first experience in a backpacker’s hostel (or as some of the GS affiliates called it Favela Hovel). My bed smelled like mildew and there was standing urine water in the upstairs toilet/shower. Four days is a long time to go without a shower but I just might do it.

Friday 29 June 2007- Day Twenty Eight

Gah. What a disaster getting the visas were. Perhaps we should have started the process before ten thirty this morning, just a thought. I’m trying not to think about the field trip to Maputo and the potential for disaster that this could turn out to be. Oh, and trying to be rational about my passport being with someone who I don’t trust or even like. And it’s really depressing to be moving out of Stay City today. I’ve finally gotten comfortable here and am nearly sleeping through the night.

Thursday 28 June 2007- Day Twenty Seven

The idea of living in a place where the electricity is unstable is a completely foreign idea to me. Right before our PBBC presentations the electricity went out at Wits (as it had the day before). This resulted in delays and venue shifts that, ultimately worked out well for the presentation groups. I can’t imagine trying to study here and have the power go out regularly.

All of the presentations went really well. And in most cases I think our presentations were better than some of the professionals that were asked to present at the conference. This amuses me since the organizers of the PBBC were concerned about us embarrassing ourselves (and if they were honest- them). The lack of professionalism at this conference is astounding. When a group of twenty somethings is more professional than the group of organizers in their fifties something is seriously wrong. And to think that these people are affiliated with the United Nations is shocking. The attitude that poverty is somehow quaint and that they can come to Joburg and ‘give these people a better life’ is pompous.