Sunday 1 July 2007- Day Thirty

I love Maputo. It is such a vibrant, relaxed city. I feel none of the underlying hostilities and resentment that exist in Joburg. I could easily spend six months to two years in Maputo. Perhaps it is because the Portuguese influence creates a familiar atmosphere but for the first time in Southern Africa I feel safe.

Today started out with an early lecture by a local architect (a meeting that we were an hour and a half late for). It is proving impossible to coordinate fifty people. After the lecture we broke into smaller groups to try and find an ATM (something that proved much more difficult than expected). One of the local architecture students took us on a tour of prominent buildings with the highlight being the public gardens that overlooked the Indian Ocean. This reminded me of the central plazas throughout Latin America. The colors and tropical plants are amazing.

After the gardens we walked along the ocean side road to get to a place to take taxis to the fish market. We ended up riding in little motorized rickshaws (in reality they were mopeds with extra seats attached for passengers). The fish market is comprised of several different fish stalls where you identify the fish you want them to cook for you (I don’t eat fish so it was less traumatic for me because it’s hard to form sentimental attachment to potatoes). We arrived hungry and thirsty but it took and hour and a half to get a Fanta and three hours to get our food. By the time we ate lunch is was four-practically time for the dinner we were supposed to have with the group.

After the meal, a number of children came up to the table and asked if they could have our leftovers. Street children are not visible in Joburg (even in the townships) but in Maputo they are. Seeing children excited to eat your excess food really puts things in perspective. We had just gorged ourselves on more food in one meal than they would have that entire day.

After dinner we made out way back to Fatima’s to find a hotel for the night (it looked like it was going to rain and the temperature was falling rapidly). My bed was under a window (a term which is defined as a large square opening in a wall that has screens stapled to it but no glass to protect from the elements). The sleep I got this evening would prove to be the best night’s sleep I’d gotten since my first night here when I passed out after twenty-five hours of travel.